John Courtney may have taken the hardest Chef job in Las Vegas in becoming the Culinary Director and Chef of Carson Kitchen and Simon Hospitality Group, the same month that the co-founder celebrity Chef Simon Kerry died. Having to become the heir of kitchen has to be a hard task, but even more so when you are potentially changing the menu of one of the most beloved Chefs in Las Vegas that everyone in the Culinary community in Vegas knew. If you don’t change the menu, you’ll be accused of not being creative enough, not making your own mark but if you change it too much, you’ll be accused of changing a tradition of the founding Chef.
Still, if there was anyone in Las Vegas that could do this job, it is Chef John Courtney. He has been part of the Vegas culinary scene for more than few years and is deeply liked by other Chefs. Courtney has helped make what is essentially Vegas-style food, starting with making one of local’s favorite bar menus at west side’s Born and Raised. He was known as one of the most versatile and sought-out Sous Chefs in Las Vegas, having helped launch RM Seafood and DB Brasserie. He’s even experimented recently with popup kitchens and short lived but amazing fried chicken food truck.
Despite all this, he’s still humble about his experience and what he is doing with Simon Hospitality Group and Carson Kitchen — making him even more perfect to take over, respectfully from Chef Simon Kerry.
Chef Courtney graciously invited us to a brunch arranged by EndoEdibles.com blogger and infamous Yelper Michael Uzmann. We were graced with the opportunity to chat with the Chef for a bit, and Uzmann quizzed him intensely about the “longtime relationships with several local purveyors and farms (that) have allowed the restaurant to maintain its wallet-friendly focus despite ever increasing food costs and rent…” At the same time, we were presented with numerous courses of delicious amazing food including favorites like the Bacon Jam with Baguettes and Crispy Chicken Skins to absolutely delicious Colorado Lamb Chops with Pecan Crust and Mint Chimichurri. Nothing wasn’t absolutely amazing yet wonderfully simple and excellent in both flavor and satisfaction.
It was a very enjoyable meal, with great company and a great Chef. I think that’s what Chef Simon wanted out of Carson Kitchen which was designed to feel like his own personal space and allow people to eat, laugh and smile together. That’s what great food should be about in a space like this.
Later in the week we sat down with Chef Courtney to ask some questions about his vision of the restaurant, how he feels “taking over” from Chef Kerry Simon, and what his favorite dishes are:
A lot of people see you stepping into Kerry Simon’s shoes, and those are some pretty crazy and fun shoes, but at the same time that puts a lot of expectations on you to both honor the Chef and also create your own versions of great accessible food. What has you and your team done to make sure that we “Keep Memory Alive” for Kerry Simon at Carson Kitchen?
I don’t look at it like I’m stepping into anyone’s shoes. This company, and all four of our restaurants, were built by Kerry Simon and Cory Harwell. Cory is still leading the charge and is, in fact, working on other deals currently in and out of Las Vegas. We work together on all of our menus. These sometimes include some of Chef Simon’s classic touches. As a company, we continue to embrace and celebrate Kerry’s legacy and even are pledging a portion of our profits to benefit Keep Memory Alive in Kerry’s name.
What is your favorite new dish on the menu, and why?
Spring is such a great season for food, so that makes it tough to answer, as I am happy with all of our menu changes. The Shrimp Dunderi, is probably on the top, if I have to choose. Large U-8’s, preserved Buddha’s hand, limoncello and calabrian chilis. Its fun, vibrant, rich flavors, but not a heavy dish.
What dish is an old favorite that you absolutely love?
Lamb Gyro Tacos. Its one of my go to meals when eating at the restaurant. They are great for sharing, and not too much if your eating solo. Again great rich lamb, tzatziki, tomato, feta, in grilled flatbread dough!
Carson Kitchen has managed to stay a local favorite, always packed, yet you keep the prices extremely competitive, yet not skimping on quality and flavor. What is your secret?
No secrets, just source the right products, working closely with our purveyors. Taking time to visit where our food comes from, get to know the growers. Its beneficial even for local restaurants here in the desert.
Why did you chose to serve Ultra-Pastured chicken at Carson Kitchen? Is this going to become a fad in Vegas, or something long term?
Not sure about the term “Ultra-Pastured”, a “Pasture Raised” bird…its a wonderful thing to see chickens that live the way these birds do at Crystal Lake Farms. They were calm, not over crowded, or over heated in there houses at night. They have acres of land to roam on, exercise, and live a bit of a life. From a chefs perspective, thats as close to a farm raised as possible. The benefits are greater from a food perspective as well. They have 40% less cholesterol than your standard “Free Range” bird, retain less water, and the flavor is considerably better.
I don’t see this becoming a fad, it could become more the norm. Why would I purchase a bird that has been alive for 55 days, stuffed next to another, in a house at 90F, dark with slight draft to keep ammonia levels down because they have no other place to shit. I think we have the choice to make it the norm, we should care about how the food we eat is raised. Where it comes from, what it eats, what it drinks, how it lives. We prize pigs that eat acorns…why not chickens that live on a farm and not in a factory “sweat shop”?
You’ve had enormous success in helping launch some of the most successful and tasty restaurants in Las Vegas including Born and Raised, a local favorite gastro-pub of sorts. What do you like most about the creation of new restaurants? Do you think Carson Kitchen will keep you excited long term and why?
Yes, I have had the pleasure of opening a few restaurants in town. I enjoy working with new flavors, designs, and the demographic of the customers in that area. Working downtown has been great, and the local love that Carson Kitchen brings to the table is very exciting to me. Working as Culinary Director for Simon Hospitality Group definitely keeps the creative juices flowing as well! We have 4 restaurants open right now and another concept opening this summer. We also have a few other projects that I’m sure you will hear about in the coming months. The team at SHG, and Carson Kitchen are superb, I have learned a lot, and it’s my honor to work with them every day!
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