Toqued by Chef Mike Deas with input from Red Rock Assistant Executive Chef Joseph Kudrak, formerly from Glutton, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge is one of those places easily overlooked by Las Vegas visitors as well as locals, a recent dinner on an early Friday evening leaving one to wonder exactly why, and how to get the word out?
More tucked away than Hearthstone, Lucille’s or The Buffet and Grand Café, a nearly 200 seat footprint overlooking the Red Rock pool with high ceilings, fireplaces and plenty of polish, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge both looks and feels like many On-Strip casino Steakhouses, but taking a few more risks with the menu than several the experience is presented as one also more affordable, the price-point not dissimilar to nearby Andiron, Fleming’s or Morton’s.
Retaining several of its well-mannered Captains from early on, the restaurant’s professional-friendly service style reportedly a focus of the Fertitta family who own Station Casinos and visit often, dinner was served in a Prix-fixe fashion and with Chefs Kudrak as well as Deas present that evening the meal was nothing short of a feast for the senses, a $300 tab for sixteen appetizers, entrees, sides and desserts plus one heck of a cocktail and a bread basket that bests any seen recently on Las Vegas Boulevard.
Acknowledging a friend’s two-hour time limit, tickets to the UNLV Opera requiring departure just before Seven o’clock, it was at a large semi-circular booth that the meal got started and with greetings from GM Christopher Jurchenkoit was not long before service was underway, the opening trio seeing lightly battered shrimp given a Chinatown treatment while steakhouse staples of French Onion Soup and Crabcakes were as good as any in the city, the former faintly sweet with plenty of bubbling cheese while the “cake” was almost pure crab with bright aromatics of paprika, onion and cayenne in the binder.
A bit off-put by the noise emanating from the bar, a combination of March Madness revelry, Friday Happy Hour and music piped in from the Gaming Floor, round two followed quickly and although fresh-cut potatoes could have been more crispy, “Perfect Poutine” was quite a bargain at just $10 when taking into account all the confit, cheese and skin, the Steakhouse Salad equally well constructed as chopped Romaine blended nicely with Avocado, Bacon and Gorgonzola beneath creamy French Dressing.
Not even 1/3 finished at this point, course three a six-piece exposition of two entrees and four sides, gone are the days of piddly portions at CUT or PRIME as Au Gratin Potatoes, Hashbrowns, Mushrooms and Creamed Corn are all built for sharing, as too is the two-piece Fried Chicken with Sage Gravy while the Beef selections range from American Wagyu to New York Prime from Niman Ranch, the latter in our case served Medium with a topping of fresh Lobster, Asparagus and Béarnaise.
Bathed by the setting sun with blinds offering only modest relief as a result of floor-to-ceiling windows that give the room part of its grand appeal, dessert was taken to the patio as music turned live in the Lounge and although admittedly already quite sated none of the five options proved less than worth the temptation, the Carrot Cake and Soufflé both straight forward classics alongside Cheesecake that trends far lighter than most followed by indulgent blueberry donuts and a frozen parfait plus Sticky Toffee Pudding that falls just short of Gordon Ramsay’s for best in The Valley.
FOUR STARS: Easily overlooked in a city where Steakhouses rule the day, T-Bones Chophouse & Lounge is a great spot for those inhabiting Summerlin to grab a Cocktail or snacks at Happy Hour and an even better one for al fresco patio dining, the price point more favorable than spots on The Strip while the menu outpaces other places nearby in terms of both creativity and quality of sourcing.
RECOMMENDED: Bread Basket, French Onion Soup, Tempura Shrimp, Buttermilk Fried Chicken, Crimini Mushrooms, Cheesecake, Ricotta Beignets.
AVOID: Hash Browns and Carrot Cake were both fine, while better can be found elsewhere. As mentioned, French Fries could have used a bit more time in the fryer to withstand the gravy.
TIP: Happy Hour 4-7pm daily, dinner starts at 5:oopm. MyVegas users can play to win “Spend 60, Get 30 off” certificates.
WHAT THE STARS MEAN: 5 World Class, 4 Excellent, 3 Good, 2 Fair, 1 Poor.
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