Summerlin is one of those weird places in Las Vegas where people have money, but not a lot a great deal of good taste. They like to think of themselves as sophisticated but in the strip malls of Summerlin it is often hard to find any restaurant that is worth visiting let alone writing about, and dozens of new chain restaurants pop-up each week it seems. Due Forni could have easily been another mediocre Italian restaurant or chain that was made for Summerlin’s bland crowd but instead they have created a pizza and wine restaurant that sets the standard for how passionate Italian food should be done in Las Vegas.
I may have never heard of Due Forni, had it not been the recommendation of several chefs and reviewers in the valley who told me about it. Because of the heavy PR-centered nature of Vegas, often we only heart about the newest, most expensive restaurants on the strip, but the local magazines often forget that off strip we have a growing vibrant culture of chefs that are always trying new things.
Carlos Buscaglia is that Chef that we need to continue to pay attention to. Formerly the Chef of MGM’s Fiamma Trattoria, he left the strip to try his hand on making his own restaurant based on his own passion. We need to be grateful that he did this, because he’s created an unique pizza restaurant that I love.
Due Forni is a simple restaurant. Their two ovens or “Due Forni” are the centerpiece of the restaurant with an open area where you can see them. While some people might not be thrilled they are not wood-burning, there is no way unless you are an expert in the uniqueness of pizza dough over hot wood, that you would care to know the difference. The pizzas are amazing. Period.
I hadn’t announced I was coming – on purpose. I don’t consider myself a food reviewer, and really hate doing restaurant reviews, partially because I realize everyone has different tastes. However, friends had told me about the restaurant, so I snuck in unannounced to try it out for the first time a few months ago – and was delighted from the start.
Since that time I have been back half a dozen times, meaning to take photos, write a little on this story and explain why I enjoy the place so much. However, instead I find myself enjoying the food, forgetting that I am a writer and thinking about what dessert Chef Buscaglia might have prepared. From the affagato made with my favorite gelatto to the cannolis they are simple, delicious and worth the calories.
The pizzas are amazing. As a Brooklynite I am very particular about my crust, and have found that many places in Vegas are clueless how to make proper dough. Due Forni offers both Napoletana which is often considered “normal” slightly doughy thick crust, or the Romana which is the thin, crispy crust. The crusts in my opinion are delicious and perfect.
I haven’t had time to try all the pizza, mainly because my son comes with me and is really partial to cheese and pepperoni on his pizza. However, lately he’s grown a little and allows me to try other types.
Since then I have tried the Margherita, the Tartufo and of course, the Pepperoni.
The Tartufo is one that I highly recommend everyone tries. It’s an amazing invention of truffle parmesan crema, with fontina fontal, rosted cremini and an over easy baked egg. Sofie Gayot called these pizzas a “true Italian version,” and agreed that the Tartufo is the indeed the best pizza on the list.
Chef Stephane Chevet said of it, “This pizza features the right amount of cheese, mushrooms, and truffle oil, which are all smoothed over with an egg that is presented sunny side up. It’s very tasty, and they even offer two crust styles: Neopolitan for a thicker crust, and Romano for a thinner, cracker-like crust,” while Chef Claude Le Tohic of Joel Robuchon is partial for pizza Napoletana, “with a great seasonal salad on the side. It’s simple but delicious.”
Most pizza places are lacking any real sort of appetizers or food. Pasta is often an after-thought and canned sauce is on the menu. However, here the appetizers and non-pizza dishes themselves make for a delightful small restaurant experience for those who don’t want pizza.
From the amazing Polopo, Mediterranean octopus to the oven baked turkey meatballs, the Chef has used what is a relatively small kitchen to create great dishes that would make any Italian-food fan happy. All the dishes are delicious, with just the right amount of attention to the quality ingredients mixed with the Italian laisse-faire cooking attitude that often makes brilliant fun food. Go once, go twice, go often and you will agree.
I think that passion for food is easily seen in Chef Buscaglia’s cooking. I feel when I am there that I am in his private kitchen. Often you can see him next to the ovens cooking, and the first time I went there he recognized me even though we hadn’t met and sent out some delicious desserts. Normally a Chef wouldn’t even see the floor, but despite his pedigree as a Chef, he works in an open kitchen, keeping eye of everything going on. On top, the staff is excellent, knowledgeable and courteous.
I couldn’t imagine a more fun experience with Pizza and Wine.
